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Greg Long
Greg Long
Fromagination - beer and domestic cheese buyer
As a cheesemonger and all-around food lover, my mantra has always been one key word: local. Wherever you go, you'll find great local food tailored and perfected to reflect the area it comes from. Food will teach you a lot about where it comes and I can think of no better way to get to know a new city than by sitting at a table for supper.
My favorite cheese will change hourly, but I have three that will always be close to my heart. Each one also represents an important facet of Wisconsin cheese making in a unique way.
Pleasant Ridge Reserve of the Uplands Creamery near Dodgeville, WI is a world-class cheese. This beautiful Beaufort reflects Wisconsin's Swiss cheese making heritage and demonstrates Old World traditions are still sometimes the best way to do things. One herd of all grass-fed cows supply the unpasteurized milk used to make this cheese which is a best seller at our store.
Bandaged Cheddar from the Bleu Mont Dairy of Blue Mounds, WI is made by the "rock star" of cheese making, Willi Lehner. Not only is this one of the best bandaged cheddars being made today, but it is energy neutral in its manufacturing. Willi, like many food producers in Wisconsin, is passionate about our environment and although cheese making is a very energy-intensive process he uses solar power and built his own aging caves to minimize his carbon footprint.
Dunbarton Blue from Roelli Cheese in Darlington, WI is a sign of the innovation in Wisconsin cheese making. Though Roelli Cheese has been a family endeavor for generations, cheesemaker Chris Roelli is not afraid to stray from the beaten path. A cave-aged cheddar with blue veins, Dunbarton Blue is universally appealing due to its gorgeous natural rind and incomparable flavor.
Greg's cheese pairings with Crispin Cider
Crispin Light I found paired very well with Big Ed Gouda from the Saxon Creamery of Cleveland, Wisconsin. Big Ed is perfect table cheese, and one I always make sure I have a home. The cider is light and delicate and the cheese is buttery and gentle. They play with each other and make a perfect combination that doesn't favor one over the other.
Crispin Original has a solid, sweet, and reliable character that is reflected by Casa Bolo from Carr Valley Cheese of LaValle, Wisconsin. Casa Bolo is an invention of Wisconsin Master Cheesemaker Sid Cook, who has been making award winning cheese since the age of 16. The cheese is made with cow, goat, and sheep milk and has a firm texture with a sweet, almost caramel flavor that is bold enough to stand up to Crispin Original but won't over power its intricate flavor.
Crispin Brut was immediately appealing to me and reminded me of the extra-dry ciders of Cornwall, England. Though Crispin Brut harkens back to cider's roots, it has a unique profile of its own, just like Dunbarton Blue of Roelli Cheese of Darlington, Wisconsin. Both are unique twists on classic styles and (thankfully for us!) taste great together as well. The nutty, wheaty, and tangy flavor make way for notes of pineapple and citrus in Dunbarton Blue compliment the dry bite of Crispin Brut perfectly.
Honey Crisp comes in a big bottle to hold that big taste. Because this cider has so many wonderful flavors going on, I wanted a cheese to expand the experience, not distract from it. Saxony cheese from the Saxon Creamery in Cleveland, Wisconsin did just that. The raw-milk, farmstead cheese is an Alpine style with a smooth, nutty taste that juxtaposes nicely with the sweet, bold flavor of the Honey Crisp.
The Saint is my favorite of the Crispin series. As a beer guy, I instantly fell in love with the Belgian Trappist yeast used to make this cider. The only cheese that can stand up to a cider this strong is a good Blue, and the Buttermilk Blue by Roth Käse of Monroe, Wisconsin was just that. The cheese extra aged making it soft, decadent, and irresistible. Not as strong as a Dutch style Blue, but not a mild as a German style, this cheese takes its cues from the southern French styles famed around the world. When put next to the dark, rich, and complex Saint, it makes a perfect dessert course after any meal.
Fox Barrel Black Currant is a refreshing change of pace after all that apple! Blackcurrant, while popular in Europe, is still relatively unknown in North America but I'm hoping it'll catch on soon. This cider is light, effervescent, and has a wonderful array of flavors that go beyond just black currant. Luckily, Petit Frère from Crave Brothers Farms in Waterloo, Wisconsin has flavors to match. One of the few soft-ripened cheeses coming from Wisconsin, this washed-rind Camembert is soft, buttery, and slightly pungent but still has hints of cranberries and raspberries.
Fox Barrel Pear impressed me most with its incredibly fragrant nose. It smells like a freshly cut pear and the flavor delivers on the promises that the aroma makes. To match this traditional 'perry' I found a traditional cheese: the Emmenthaler from the Edelweiss Creamery of Monticello, Wisconsin. Wisconsin Master Cheesemaker Bruce Workman is the only person producing traditional Emmenthaler in North America. Local grass-fed, unpasteurized milk is made into 180 pound wheels in large copper kettles, just like all the best Emmenthalers in Switzerland. Both smell amazing and both taste amazing, together and on their own.
